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Interview: HANNAH RAND
Photographer: CHLOE MALLETT
Fashion Director: URSULA LAKE
INSPIRED BY THE INFAMOUS MARCHESA LUISA CASATI, THE LUXURY EVENINGWEAR LABEL MARCHESA, BY GEORGINA CHAPMAN AND KEREN CRAIG, IS KNOWN FOR CELEBRATING DECADENCE AND OPULENCE WITH A SENSE OF FUN. MAKE MAGAZINE WERE GIVEN EXCLUSIVE ACCESS TO PHOTOGRAPH THEIR AUTUMN WINTER 2017 CATWALK COLLECTION AND FIND OUT HOW THE DESIGNERS MAINTAIN THEIR CREATIVITY AND SENSE OF ADVENTURE.
Q. You have always worked as a design duo. Tell me how your dynamics work — how your different personalities work together? Do you have different roles, for example?
A. GC: Keren and I first met when we were students at Chelsea Art College and we instantly hit it off. We share a passion for travel and design, not to mention our specialities in design complement each other quite well — which plays a huge part in why we work so well together.
KC: While we both play separate roles in the design process, we are very much aligned in design aesthetic, which works in our favour. For example, Georgina conceptualises the collection designs and silhouettes, and I design the embroideries. Marchesa is based on a sense of flamboyant individuality.
Q. How much are your designed based on global trends? Or do you try and come from a completely fresh place every season?
A. GC: While Marchesa Luisa Casati is the guiding inspiration behind our brand, we find inspiration in our surroundings, whether that be from cities, architecture or a book. I have also been particularly influenced by film, especially since I trained as a costume designer. I’ve always appreciated the transformative effect of a costume.
KC: When designing we’re not influenced by trends – for us, it is far more important that whatever we’re creating feels relevant 10, 20 or even 30 years later.
Q. How do you create distinct new collections for each season?
A. GC We are always in planning mode. I think it is safe to say that we never feel short of inspiration. We have the opportunity to design in so many different capacities, whether it be for the runway, red carpet or a different medium altogether.
KC: With a brand like ours, we have the freedom to be as dramatic in the designs as we want. That flexibility allows us limitless opportunities.
Q.Where do you start your design process and how does it make you stand out from other luxury brands?
A. GC: It’s difficult to compare our design process compared to that of other designers as everyone has their own formula. For Keren and I, it’s quite the natural process — something will just come to me and we begin to explore it and begin building mood boards to visualise the various elements.
KC: Once our mood boards are set, we work together to bring the inspiration to life. Georgina draping and developing silhouettes, while I begin to create the textiles and embroidery. We have an amazingly supportive team who helps us throughout the process.
Q. Do you always design for glamour, or would you like to ever design for more off-duty days?
A. GC: We decided to launch Marchesa Notte line based on customer feedback — women loved our gowns, but they always wanted less formal items. Our Notte collection is designed to be your wardrobe staples, items you can put on no matter the event.
KC: Both Georgina and I are passionate about eveningwear, which is why we started Marchesa, but we love giving the Marchesa woman options to wear for all occasions, whether it be a gown for a special event, a bridal gown or separates for something a bit more casual.
Hair Stylist: Tyler Laswell @ Ray Brown Pro
Makeup Artist: Carlo Longo @Ray Brown Pro
Model: Sophia Skloss @ Fusion Models.
Casting: Cicek Brown
Photography Assistant: Chris White
All clothing and shoes throughout by Marchesa
With thanks to Marchesa, Ray Brown and the Ludlow Hotel
All clothing and shoes throughout by Marchesa
All clothing and shoes throughout by Marchesa
All clothing and shoes throughout by Marchesa
All clothing and shoes throughout by Marchesa