Wild Side
Photography and words by Greg Sorensen
Our guide to the untamed and mysterious side of Portugal. The Azores.
You may have heard of the Azores, but where are they and what are they? The Azores are, in fact, nine volcanic Portuguese islands sitting in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. They are remote, but not that remote. They are lush, but not tropical. They are low-key, but enchanting.
Firstly, the Azores are green: Everywhere. The soils are volcanic, and it rains regularly, so everything grows. Lots of green land means the Azores are also home to many happy cows. Which is why, for a chain of islands, one might think the primary staple of their cuisine would be seafood, but it’s not. In fact, it’s beef.
Yes, you can sample local seafood specialties like limpets, but beef seems to be king. There are more cows than people in the Azores and from that abundance come local cheeses a plenty. But that’s not all. The Azores can grow everything from pineapples to tea, and are among the only places in Europe that produce both commercially.
The Azores evoke echoes of the Hawaiian Islands, but with a more temperate Atlantic climate and matching food traditions. Beef, seafood, cheeses, freshly baked breads and pastries, and other such foodstuffs are generally simple, plentiful, and relatively affordable. Since so many things grow and thrive in the Azores, unlike many other islands, there is less need to import goods. It’s easy to shop for and eat locally sourced produce, so everything feels fresh and fairly priced.
One restaurant in particular stood out for highlighting the local foods of the Azores: Restaurante Associação Agrícola de São Miguel. A unique place to eat, housed in the somewhat corporate-feeling headquarters of the Agricultural Association of São Miguel, the restaurant features local beef, cheeses, breads, and desserts that showcase the best the Azores have to offer. Very popular with locals, it’s recommended to book ahead. In general, booking ahead for most restaurants and activities in the Azores is a good idea, especially in high season. The islands are small and can fill up quickly with locals and visitors alike.
Volcanic activity also means that the Azores are home to some amazing hot springs. The climate is mild year-round, which means the hot springs can be enjoyed at any time. The epicenter, if you will, of hot springs in the Azores is the charming town of Furnas. There is the public Parque Terra Nostra, where anyone can soak in the thermal baths and stroll through lush botanical gardens. Or plan-ahead and book something like the more intimate Poça da Dona Beija. While in Furnas, one can sample the simple but traditional Cozido das Furnas, a feast of meats and vegetables slow cooked for hours underground using natural geothermal heat. Restaurante Tony’s is a great spot to try Cozido and other local dishes. Don’t worry if you don’t eat meat, they also offer a vegetarian version!
Beyond the plentiful food and hot springs, there are breathtaking views and stunning hikes almost everywhere. Renting a car is recommended, and getting around is fairly easy. As you make your way around the island, there are seemingly endless vistas to stop off at and enjoy a quick coffee or local treat. Head toward the interior, and the roads quickly wind up into lush forests with countless hiking trails. In particular, the Sete Cidades caldera, offering views of twin crater lakes, is must-see.
But be forewarned: the weather can change quickly depending on the terrain and even minute to minute. Sunny skies can rapidly give way to rain and wind, and vice versa. Always having a rain jacket or an extra layer is strongly encouraged. Bad weather may appear quickly, but it’s likely to disappear just as fast. As they say locally, if you don’t like the weather in the Azores, just wait an hour.
The Azores offer a unique mix of the volcanic wonder of places like Hawaii or Iceland, but with a more European, laid-back vibe. Don’t expect heaps of excitement; it’s more about hiking, maybe trying a surf lesson, and enjoying local food alongside laid-back locals. While in the Azores, we primarily explored the “big island” of São Miguel, but there are eight other distinct islands offering even more opportunities for discovery and seclusion. We say go and explore!
