Subtle Defiance
Photographer – Chloe Mallett
Fashion Director – Ursula Lake
Make chats to the designer Huishan Zhang to learn what makes him tick!
Q. Tell us a little bit about your childhood, background and your route into fashion design.
A. I grew up in China, in an environment that valued discipline, craft and a deep respect for cultural heritage. From an early age, I was drawn to beauty in its many forms whether in art, architecture, or the quiet poetry of everyday objects. This sensibility led me to pursue fashion. My time at Central Saint Martins allowed me to refine my perspective and develop a language that bridges Eastern and Western aesthetics with a sense of modern femininity. A particularly formative chapter was my time at the Dior atelier in Paris, where I was immersed in the discipline of haute couture and the extraordinary level of craftsmanship. It was an experience that instilled in me a deep appreciation for precision, patience and the emotional resonance of clothing.
What was the turning point that made you want to create your own brand, or had you always wanted to do that?
The idea of creating my own brand evolved quite organically. While working in London, I became increasingly aware of a desire to express a very personal vision, and one that felt both intimate and distinct. The turning point came when I realised that the stories I wanted to tell, and the women I wanted to dress, required a platform that was entirely my own. It was less about ambition and more about necessity and a need for creative authenticity.
What would you say informs or influences your designs the most? Can you tell us a little bit about your design process?
My designs are informed by a dialogue between heritage and modernity. I often draw inspiration from art, cinema, and the nuances of cultural memory. The process itself is quite intuitive, and I begin with a mood or an emotion, which gradually evolves into texture, silhouette, and detail. Fabric plays a central role; I am particularly interested in how it moves and interacts with the body. From there, the collection unfolds almost like a narrative, each piece contributing to a cohesive story.
Q. Do you have a muse or a dream idea of the woman that you design for?
A. I design for a woman who possesses a quiet confidence, someone who is self-assured yet understated. She appreciates craftsmanship and subtlety, and she understands the power of restraint. She does not seek attention but naturally commands it. In many ways, she is not defined by age or background, but by her sensibility and her appreciation for timeless elegance.
Does your Chinese heritage have an influence on the aesthetic or any other element of the brand?
Yes, very much so, although often in a nuanced way. Rather than overt references, I prefer to incorporate elements of my heritage through subtle details be it in the choice of fabric, the precision of tailoring, or the philosophy behind the design. There are a certain refinement and respect for craftsmanship that is deeply rooted in Chinese culture, and this quietly informs the brand’s identity.
Q. How do you tackle the concepts of sustainability and other ethical issues as a fashion designer?
A. Sustainability to me begins with intention. It is about creating pieces that are enduring, both in quality and in design so they transcend seasons. I focus on responsible sourcing, thoughtful production and minimising waste wherever possible. Equally important is fostering a sense of value; when a garment is cherished, it naturally becomes more sustainable.
Q. If you weren’t a fashion designer, what would you be?
A. I have always been drawn to the arts, so perhaps I would have pursued something within that realm, possibly architecture or interior design. Both disciplines share a similar concern for structure, proportion and atmosphere, which I find endlessly fascinating.
Q. We love Chinese Zodiac! It’s the Chinese year of the Fire Horse, what does that mean for you and your brand?
A. The Fire Horse is associated with energy, independence, and a certain boldness of spirit. For me, it represents a moment of dynamism, forward movement and a willingness to take risks while remaining true to one’s identity. It feels like an invitation to embrace change with confidence and clarity.
Q. What are your plans or hopes for the future of the brand?
A. I hope to continue evolving the brand in a way that feels both considered and authentic. Growth for me is not simply about scale, but about deepening the narrative by exploring new techniques, expanding our reach and continuing to dress women in a way that feels meaningful. Ultimately, I want the brand to have longevity and to remain relevant without losing its essence.
Q. The theme of this issue is ‘Rebel’. What’s the most rebellious thing you have ever done?
A. I think choosing a quieter, more introspective path in an industry that often celebrates spectacle is a form of rebellion. Staying true to a restrained aesthetic and resisting the pressure to conform to trends, requires a certain conviction. In that sense, my rebellion is one of subtle defiance.
Q. It’s full on being a fashion designer with all the collections you have to produce and the commitments to your customers. What do you do for fun and to relax?
A. I find balance in simplicity, spending time with close friends, visiting galleries, or travelling when possible. I also enjoy moments of stillness, whether it’s reading or simply observing the world around me. These quiet interludes are essential; they allow me to reconnect and ultimately inform my creative process.
Hair by Richard Scorer
Make up by Sonia Deveney
Model Meng Y at PRM Models
